How to spend the perfect week in Lake Como, Italy

In 2018, after doing some research and tossing a coin between France and Italy, I decided to make Lake Como my home for the foreseeable future. I selected it for several reasons. It is close to Milan which has 3 airports (Malpensa, Linate and Bergamo). The house prices in Northern Italy do not appear to fluctuate as much as other parts of Italy and of course the lake (Lago) is absolutely beautiful. I wanted a lifestyle where I could walk and hike a lot, have good weather for at least part of the year, have the challenge of learning a new language and have great food and wine. Rugby is one of my favourite sports and Italy play in the 6 Nations and have professional teams. Therefore, I thought I could attend a match in Rome occasionally and also see Benetton Treviso play the Irish provincial teams. So Lake Como and Italy ticked all those boxes !

I will write a blog in the future about the challenges of buying a home in a foreign country as I have done this 3 times now. I also worked for 6 months in 2019 as an Event Planner and Concierge in a local villa and could write a book about my experiences – so that might be worth a short story or two.

Due to living here and working as an Event Planner, I have learnt a lot about what the Lake has to offer, so am sharing my opinions with you !

Lake Como is shaped like an inverted Y, or a headless body ! It is in Lombardy in Northern Italy, quite close to the Swiss border and Milan is the nearest major city. I think the towns and villages on the left side of the lake are different to the right and I have visited a lot of them. I live on the left side of the Lake.

• Cities, Towns and Villages

Como

Como Citta, is right on the bottom of the left leg of the lake and is the largest urban area. It is serviced by 2 train stations (Lago Nord and San Giovanni). You can travel to Milan from both and to Malpensa Airport from Lago Nord (change at Saronno) and to several cities in Switzerland from San Giovanni (including directly to Zurich). You can get a bus to Linate and Bergamo from the main train station in Milan (Milano Centrale). I love travelling by train in Italy and think it is very reliable and relatively cheap. At the pier in Como, you can also take the ferry to other parts of the lake and there are various options from the large tour boats to the fast one (Service Rapido) used by commuters also. There are lots of buses (mainly blue and orange coloured) which go from the 2 bus depots, situated by the train stations. The buses are cheap and very clean but they are very crowded and regularly delayed during peak season. 

Como is a lovely city with beautiful architecture, piazzas, pedestrian streets and a partial medieval wall. It has a great selection of local shops, cafes and restaurants. It is very safe to walk around and doesn’t seem to have the issues with theft and pickpocketing you unfortunately regularly encounter in cities.

Como is the birthplace of Alessandro Volta, a physician and chemist who invented the electric battery. The Volta museum is by the lake, there is a statue in Piazza Volta (also the site of his house) and the laboratory of his mentor is in the old part of the city. The Life Electric monument, erected in his honour, is strategically placed by the lake and is one of the most distinctive sculptures in the city.   

There are 4 Municipal museums in Como and my favourites are the Museo Giovio (Archaeological Museum) and the Pinacoteca Civica (Art Gallery). You can take the funicular (cablecar) to Brunate, which is a small town overlooking the right side of the lake. The panoramic views of the city are breathtaking and you really can appreciate how beautiful a city it is, with its terracotta coloured rooftops and the cathedral dome.

The Duomo i.e. the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assent is situated in Piazza Duomo and is a great example of Gothic architecture. Construction started in 1396. It contains distinctive tapestries, 16th century paintings and the interior is rather imposing as is 87m long and reaches 75m high.

The smaller Basilicas of di San Fedele and Saint Abundius are also worth visiting and if you are catholic or interested in attending a service, all have mass on Saturdays and Sundays and on certain week days.

Belaggio

Belaggio is on the right side of the Lake and is probably the most famous and busiest spot on the Lake. I now know why it inspired the beautiful casino in Las Vegas ! 

Belaggio is 32km from Como Citta by road and 24km on the lake. It takes about 45min by bus, without traffic. The buses are extremely crowded during peak season and there are lots of traffic delays on that side of the lake. The ferry goes to Belaggio also but I don’t think there is a direct one. The service rapido from Como takes about 50 mins and will be more comfortable than the bus. The other ferries can take 90mins to 150mins as they usually stop in a lot of places along the way. You can also take the car ferry from Cadenabbia (takes 10 mins), but I don’t know what people do with a car in Belaggio. I would only take one over, if I was driving on from Belaggio afterwards. 

I love Belaggio, even though it is very commercial. I often visit when it is quite and take the service rapido from Argegno which takes 25 mins. Belaggio has great shops and restaurants and a wine tasting bar that I really like. It has lots of cobbled street going uphill from the main piazza. There is a tree lined promenade with lots of colourful flowers to the left of the town and you can walk through gardens to the church and around the back streets overlooking the lake. There are several villas also nearby, the most famous being Villa Serbelloni and Villa Melzi. 

Lecco

Lecco, is on the opposite side of the lake from Como Citta. I spent 4 days there when I first went to Lake Como in 2018. I really like it and it seemed different than the other large towns in the area. I travelled by bus, which took about 80 minutes as I wanted to see some of the countryside over that way. You can also go by train from Como, either directly or with a short stop at Monza. 

While I absolutely love Italian food, I like to be able to go to other restaurants and Lecco had more ethnic restaurants than anywhere else I went. There was a lovely Indian one on the main Piazza and a Lebanese, Mediterranean one on a small side street. There was also an Irish bar in Lecco. Sometimes I struggle with the paddywackery in Irish bars abroad and this one had a sign outside saying it had “real Irish air” inside. I didn’t go in, but will drop by one day.

Lecco is surrounded by mountains and is very picturesque. I understand there are lots of Mountain trails to hike on and a cable car will take you to the Monte Barro look out point. I didn’t go up but plan to go over in the near future and explore further. Like lots of towns Lecco has a beautiful distinctive church steeple which has the mountains in its backdrop.

Lecco is famous in Italy as the setting for Alessandro Manzoni’s ‘The Bethrothed’. The Manzoni museum is worth a visit. St. Nicholas is the patron Saint of Lecco and there is a beautiful gold statue of him, directly in the lake, in the Punta Maddalena area.

When I meet tourists visiting the Lake, very few plan a trip to Lecco, but I think it’s one of the gems on the lake.

I also recommend visiting Menaggio, Lenno, Cernobbio (left side) and Varenna and Colico (right side).

• Greenway del lago di Como

As mentioned previously, I love to walk and was delighted when I discovered the Greenway. It is a 10.5km walk along part of the left side of the lake. It starts in Colonno, which is a small village about 17km north of Como Citta and ends in Griante. The official brochure says it takes about 3.5 hours which of course depends on how fast you walk and how often you stop to take in the sights.

The main thing I love about the Greenway is the fact that it is very diverse. You walk through lots of small villages and towns like Colonno, Mezzagra, Tremezzo and Cadenabbia. You walk by the lake through Lenno and in the mountain side overlooking Sala Comacina and Ossuccio. I walk this regularly and really enjoy the seasonal changes and the different views of the lake along the way. When I walk, I usually start at about 9.30am, have a coffee in Ossuccio or Lenno and then lunch in Tremezzo. I usually make a day out of it and walk back also. It’s a great workout as parts are uphill  but there are bus stops along the way if you need to take one. It is well signposted (sign above) and with the silver markers in the ground (see below).

• Hiring a boat

After the Greenway, getting out on the lake and steering a boat myself is my next favourite thing to do. While I haven’t managed to get all my visitors to walk the Greenway with me, everyone has been out on a boat trip. Most of the villages and towns have locally managed services and are usually open from 8am to 8pm during peak season. You can hire a boat for a set number of hours and you show your ID and complete the insurance documentation. You don’t need a license to hire a boat less than 40hp and most are suitable for up to 6 people. You can dock at lots of places along the lake and then explore on foot, but I usually just hire one for 2 hours and spend the whole time on the lake. There are places you can swim on the lake but most of it isn’t suitable for swimming, so be cautious if you decide to take the plunge.

• Boat Tour

If you don’t fancy driving the boat yourself there are lots of private tour boats in the area. Most will have multilingual guides who are extremely knowledgable about the area. Boats suitable for various numbers of people are available and you can hire them privately or join scheduled tours. After doing some research I arranged tours North and South of Argegno for guests at the villa with a local company and all my guests enjoyed the tours. Several of them went on numerous trips. Tours can be expensive so it is worth doing some research to find one that suits your budget. While the local ferries are a great option too, they can be very crowded and take a long time to get to places. 

• Villas

There are lots of Villas to visit on the lake but the following 2 are my favourites:

• Villa del Balbianello

If you are a James Bond or Star Wars fan you may recognise this villa. It is also regularly featured in wedding magazines and in fashion spreads. It is near Lenno, on the left side of the Lake. It is accessible by a 15-20 minute walk (with limited parking, behind the main Lenno street) or you can take a water taxi. 

The villa is now owned by the Italian National Trust and the gardens and buildings are extremely well maintained. There are several small buildings with quite peculiar lay-outs. The history of the owners (from Cardinal Durini to Guido Monzino) is fascinating and I strongly recommend you take a tour, if you visit. There are bi-lingual guides always available. The last owner Monzino, was part of the first Italian expedition to climb Mount Everest, although he had to stay at Base Camp as he got altitude sickness. His journey particularly interested me, as I have been to Everest Base Camp.

• Villa Carlotta

Villa Carlotta, is right by the lake north of Tremezzo. If you take a boat or ferry, you really can appreciate the building and gardens from the lake. 

I don’t think you need to take a tour of Carlotta. I suggest you take a pamphlet and walk around at your own pace. The history of the owners again is fascinating and how it got its name. However, it’s the beautifully maintained gardens which make a trip to Carlotta special. The flowers change by season and there are some very unique trees and shrubs. There is cafe at the gardens also, which is worth a visit. 

• Mountain Hikes and Walks 

One of the reasons I settled in Lake Como is the proximity to mountain areas. I can walk from Argegno via Santa Anna to Schignano on a trail. The surface on part of it was recently upgraded and while I wish they hadn’t used tarmacadam, I love the walk. It takes about an hour and it’s all up-hill so is a great workout. Sometimes I will have a glass of prosecco (costing €2 or €3) in a local cafe on a Sunday mornings and watch the world go by. 

I also like to walk to San Fidele Intelvi, although you walk along the road for part of the way and the traffic can be very busy so you have to be careful. It’s approximately 9km from Argegno and you pass through Dizzasco and Castiglione and it takes about 2 hours in total.

The views of the countryside overlooking the lake are really beautiful and you get to see a whole different view of the villages and towns. Both of these walks are a chance to get away from the main tourist areas and see where the locals live.

• Church Steeples and Bells 

One of the most distinctive features and sounds on the lake are the church steeples and bells. They are everywhere and the bells do ring all day long on the hour. The steeples usually have traditional stone cladding or are coloured yellow, cream or orange. In some areas you can hear two bells going off at the same time and in harmony.

• Travelling around the lake (car, bus, ferry) 

I do have a car and drive to some destinations around the lake. However, the roads can be very busy and it can be difficult to find parking during peak season. There are mountain underpasses between some destinations which are great, as it is much quicker and you avoid the delays in the small towns and villages. There are also lots of cyclists and motorcyclists on the roads so if you are a nervous driver, this isn’t the place for you to drive. You do encounter situations where the road is narrow and it’s difficult to pass. It can be great fun meeting large lorries and buses. There are restrictions on when commercial lorries can pass up and down the lake during peak season, which helps a lot. Hiring a car in Italy is cheaper than in other European countries. I would only hire a car, if I planned lots of journeys off the beaten track though. 

There are lots of parking meters in Como Citta, but I usually park in the car parks (Parking Structures) as it is easier to get a spot and you pay when leaving.

You can buy tickets on the local busses but the fares are usually €1.50 more expensive than if you purchased one beforehand. A one way trip from Como to Argegno costs €3.50 so if you travel regularly the difference can add up. I have often heard the drivers tell passengers they don’t have change or tickets, so I do advise you purchase tickets first. They can be purchased at the two train stations in Como and in lots of “Tabacchi” shops along the lake. Tickets are not issued for particular times, so you can purchase a few in advance. Driving on the buses is also a real experience as the drivers have nerves of steel and are great at navigating the small spaces and don’t stop unless essential ! 

You can purchase tickets for the public ferries on-line and I strongly recommend that. The queues at Como Citta and Belaggio are crazy during high season. You can purchase them on the boat, only if there was no office at the port you started from. You can only buy the fast ferry tickets (Service Rapido) at the offices and you can only buy one leg at a time i.e. single as opposed to return. They are very strict about the number of passengers on this service. If you do plan to take this ferry, I strongly recommend you purchase your return ticket as soon as you get off the first leg. I have seen lots of people not able to get a return ticket and either then have to take the slower one, or make alternative arrangements.  

There is a seaplane company in Como Citta and others along the lake. Personally I would advise you take a boat trip instead and if you want aerial views you should walk up to the mountains or take a funiva (cable car). The plane journeys get canceled a lot due to the windy weather and I think they are expensive.

• Bike or Vespa

You will see and hear the cyclists and motorcyclists everywhere on the Lake at all times. At the weekends, it appears that half of Italy is cycling around or congregated at coffee shops and bars. There are lots of companies hiring bikes (manual and electric) and you can either hire them and tour alone or join organised tours. If you want to experience real Italian culture then hire a Vespa and nip around like the locals.

I suggest you take an organised bike tour, especially if you want to go off the beaten track and see different areas. 

• Food and Drink 

Eating out is part of the culture in Italy and there are cafes and restaurants everywhere on the Lake. While I am vegetarian, Fish dishes are one of the specialities, particularly Lavarello (a freshwater whitefish). The well known pasta, pizza and risotto dishes are available in most places. I love saffron risotto (a speciality from Milan), lemon ravioli, penne arrabbiata and the polenta dishes.

The Lombardy wine region is known for Red Valtellina and Franciacorta sparking wines. However, there are also some local vineyards with their own speciality grapes and wines. My favourite white wine is Laguna, which is from Lake Garda and a red Nebbiolo, a Valtellina wine.

You can’t some to Italy without trying Gelato and there are shops everywhere with a wide array of favourites, here on the lake. My favourite Italian flavour is Stracciatella, vanilla mixed with chocolate pieces.

As 99% of the time, the food and wine will be excellent, so I usually select restaurants and cafes for the view or ambience. You can’t really go too wrong and most are locally owned and managed and you will be made extremely welcome. Do make time also for an aperitivo in the afternoon, early evening and enjoy a cocktail with some complementary snacks (see tips on Italy).

I hope my points above were of interest to you and I hope you have a great time if you visit Lago di Como, now my adopted home !