How to spend 48 hours in Basel – the cultural capital of Switzerland 

I travelled from Lucerne by train to Basel. This was my third city to visit in Switzerland on this trip. Basel is situated in the northwest of Switzerland and it was my first visit to this region. The river Rhine flows through Basel.

The train journey took seventy five minutes and a first class ticket cost €48.53. 

I arrived in Basel just before noon. The train station is a large imposing building and is Europe’s busiest international border station. Trains go to Germany, France, Italy and within Switzerland from here. 

My hotel was a thirty five minute walk from the station. I crossed a bridge and got my first glimpse of the spectacular river Rhine. I also walked through streets with cafes, shops and churches everywhere. My hotel was situated in the Messeplatz area. The main exhibition center is situated here so it’s a popular area to stay in when attending exhibitions and concerts. While this isn’t near the city center there is a tram stop right outside the hotel which takes you there. 

I spent two days in Basel and this is what I saw and did.

Basel Card

I was given a card, when I checked into my hotel. This is available to guests staying in a city hotel for the duration of your stay. With this you have access to free travel within the city and discounts at some museums and attractions. 

In other Swiss cities I have visited, the hotel had emailed me city cards. I often received them the night before I arrived. Receiving it early has been very beneficial if I arrived before I could check into my hotel. 

Regardless of the process I was happy to receive it and hoped it would save me some money. 

Old Town

After I checked into my hotel I headed straight for the Old Town district. This took me about fifteen minutes to walk back the way I had just come. 

The Old Town area is mainly pedestrianised. A warren of small streets and squares are surrounded by beautiful buildings. Everywhere you look there is something interesting to see between statutes, windows, balconies, and rooftops. Watch out for the strange artwork also – see one example below !

There were a few cafes with seats outside in the squares. The atmosphere here is really tranquil. Years that buildings were constructed were listed above doors and they ranged from 1200-1400. The streets are spotlessly clean and this really is a beautifully maintained, picturesque area. 

Basler Munster – Cathedral 

The Basler Munster is probably the most well known building in Basel. It is situated in Old Town. The  construction of the original building, in the Romanesque and Gothic styles, started in the year 1019. This building was destroyed by an Earthquake in 1356 and restored and reopened in 1500.

The outside is very distinctive due to its red stone architecture. It has two quite narrow towers. The roof has very colourful slates on its exterior.

While you get a great look at the outside of the cathedral from Old Town, you also get a wonderful view of the back of it along the banks of the Rhine.

There was no charge to visit the interior and I enjoyed walking around looking at everything. It reminded me of several other Protestant churches I have visited. The beautiful brick walls are quite bare albeit with lots of integrated columns and arches. It has some beautiful stained glass windows and a huge organ. 

For those of you who read my posts will know that I love to climb towers and see a panoramic view of a city. I was delighted when I read that you could climb the tower here, for a small charge. 

However, it was not to be, as they only allow you to go in groups of two. When I was told this, I said I would wait for a few minutes to see if another person arrived. I don’t speak German but it was obvious that my request wasn’t  appreciated. I stood to one side. Another tourist came over and told me that the attendant wasn’t happy that I asked this and she suggested I should leave. I was quite surprised at this interaction as even though I thought it was strange I couldn’t go up myself, I had been polite. So my first few hours in Basel didn’t start off very well.

Museum of Culture

After leaving the Cathedral, I noticed a sign to a small museum across the square. I decided to see if they wanted my business !  This is the Museum of Culture. The entrance fee was 8 CHF (€8.60), a 50% discount with my Basel card.

The first room I went into had a very interesting display all about Colonisation. Screens were playing interviews with people talking about their experiences. Several people were from Indonesia. Given the World we live in today, where immigration is regularly discussed, I found this fascinating. 

Next I watched a silent video of a group of people running through Basel at nighttime. It really is one of the most interesting things I have watched in years. I was just transfixed. They were all dressed in black and white costumes. Some as animals, others as skeletal figures and others in suits and dresses. As they ran around, they either interacted with people or buildings. They danced on window sills, lingered in doorways and just looked as if they were out to intimidate and cause chaos. It really is bizarre in a fascinating way. When I went to leave, I noticed that there were some headphones so I put one on and watched a part with the sound. However, it was more atmospheric to watch it in its eerie silence. 

The last room I went into had lots of exhibits from various countries. These included Colombia, India, Papua New Guinea, Malaysia and Australia. While most are really beautiful, I’ll remember the video in the second exhibition the most from this Museum.

I thought this was great value with the 50% discount but expensive if you have to pay the full price. 

Kunstmuseum 

On my second day I decided to visit the Kunstmuseum. This rather austere building is close to Old Town. I was told at the ticket office that you could pair your ticket with one for another exhibition (in another building ten minutes away) so I purchased both. Together they cost 13 CHF (€13.95) also at 50% discount with the Basel Card. 

When I entered the main building I was given a map. Straight away it was obvious that this place was huge and the exhibits were spaced out. I was told I had to leave my small backpack in a locker. 

I went to the ground floor first to the “Newbau” (new building). This was all modern art and quite honestly some were very difficult to fathom so I didn’t stay too long. Alarms kept going off and invigilators were following people around and trying to figure out what was happening.

I went to the first floor next. It had lots of installations including a suitcase made from Plaster of Paris, a piece of wood with some paint spilled on it, black and white photographs of water towers and a box of torches and flashlights.

While I usually love Museums, I was glad at this stage that I hadn’t paid full price for this. Although it is so huge, I added lots of steps to my daily step count !

I then went to the “Hauptbau” (main building). This really is where I got a little excited and started enjoying the Museum. It literally had paintings and sculptures from every well known artist and several I haven’t heard of. The highlights I thought were :

• 15 works by Marc Chagall
• Bronze statue of Picasso
• 10 works by Anri Sala (an artist from Albania who I am not familiar with)
• Injured Jockey by Degas
• Shield with the head of Medusa by Steenwyick
• Still Life with Skulls by Bocklin
• The Burning Giraffe by Dali
• Seated Harlequin by Picasso 
• Eiffel Tower by Delaunay  

The layout of this museum isn’t intuitive, several areas were closed off and lifts were not working. I almost missed a whole section. When I doubled back I saw a room I hadn’t been into.

I did enjoy some of the museum but parts of it are not to everyone’s taste (me included).

“When We See Us” exhibition

This is the second place I visited with the entrance fee I paid when visiting the Kunstmuseum. It was in a smaller building which was a short walk (less than ten minutes) from the main museum. 

This particular exhibition was in Basel for six months. I understand that they usually have touring exhibitions here so it’s a great chance to see something a little different. The locals must love it.

Everything in this exhibition was created by Black Artists over the past one hundred years. The paintings were displayed over three floors and had artists from every corner of the World. Multi-lingual descriptions were beside each painting.

The Caribbean section had music from a steel band playing in the background which was extremely atmospheric.

The also had a calendar of significant events from 1800-2010 impacting black citizens all over the World. They were in categories of Social, Political, Educational, Artistic and Publications. 

I really enjoyed this exhibition and highly recommend you see it, if you get the opportunity. The images below are of some of the work that stood out to me.

Paper Museum

Just after I left the “When we see us” exhibition I decided to walk around in that area. It has the most beautiful small streets and a river with small bridges.

When walking around I came to the “Paper Museum” in a beautiful building so I decided to visit it. The entrance fee was 10 CHF (€10.75) also at 50% discount with the Basel Card. 

An amazing water mill was just near the entrance to this Museum. The exhibitions were all displayed in small rooms on various floors. Unfortunately this museum isn’t suitable for anyone with mobility issues.

I always enjoy a quirky and different museum and this one is absolutely brilliant. To be honest I enjoyed it more than the large Kunstmuseum. 

There were great signs everywhere explaining the exhibits. Did you know that the Chinese invented paper more than 2,000 years ago ? 

Paper making came to Basel in 1448, making it one of the first places in Europe to have this industry. They explained all the old techniques right through to the modern day processes. They also explained the paper recycling process in a very interesting way. They have pictures showing how paper changes over an eighty day period.

They have displays of lots of items made from paper, from packaging to toilet paper. They also have a wonderful selection of writing instruments from quills to fountain pens.

I also got to see paper being made and to create a sheet myself. There were only children queuing to do this but I didn’t care so I waited for my turn. 

As is normal in Switzerland, you encounter people who can speak lots of languages and I heard the instructor explaining the process in French, German and Italian before it was my turn. He also spoke excellent English and I made a sheet which was watermarked and given to me as a souvenir.

I thoroughly enjoyed this museum and highly recommend it. I spent about seventy minutes here and it flew by.

City Hall 

When I first decided to go to Basel, the distinctive red City Hall was another building I saw in every on-line search and guide book. This building is in a very busy part of the city where there are lots of shops, cafes and restaurants.

The local government sits here and it is over five hundred years old. While the exterior is beautiful the interior courtyard is even more spectacular. It has lots of ornate statues, frescos, window frames and wooden doors.

It was very busy when I arrived and lots of people were taking photographs. I found it very hard to get a decent photograph of the exterior due to its position on the busy street, the constant stream of trams and the construction work in the surrounding buildings. I’d love to come back and see it very early one morning. 

Swimming in the Rhine 

The Rhine is absolutely beautiful and it was my first time to see this iconic European river. I crossed it multiple times going back and forward. There are a real mixture of buildings on both sides of it.

I noticed that people appeared to be swimming with large plastic inflatables. Originally I thought they were swimming rings but I then discovered they are waterproof bags that people put their belongings in. They then attach them to their bodies and swim. These bags are called a “Wicklefisch” and they were on sale in shops by the riverbank. They cost around 20 CHF (€21.50) and apparently are one of the most popular souvenirs to buy in Basel. 

Well as I watched closely there didn’t appear to be much swimming going on and people seemed to be floating along with the current.

I asked a waitress about this and she confirmed this. She told me she often “floats” between bridges on her way to and from work. This really is one of the most unusual ways to commute I have seen.

I love swimming and “floating” and I really regretted not making the time to do this. 

Food, Beverages, etc

If you read my post on Lucerne, you will have learned that there were lots of ethnic restaurants there. Unfortunately I didn’t see as many in Basel in the areas I walked around. 

The main restaurants I saw were quite meat based. The ones with vegetarian options were mainly Italian. I did have some nice meals in Basel though. I sat outside a lot and enjoyed watching the World go by.

One of my favourite meals was a quinoa salad, I had, in the courtyard restaurant of the Antikenmuseum. 

I also enjoyed a pasta dish in Prego restaurant on Wettseinplatz. This is a busy corner with restaurants on each intersection. There is a church nearby and the bells rang extremely loudly for ages when I was there. It was incredibly beautiful.

While I am spoiled for choice with good and cheap wines in Italy, I really enjoyed some lovely Rose in Switzerland.

It isn’t cheap to eat out in Switzerland but I have found the quality of the food and the service extremely good. Both main courses I referenced above cost 20 CHF (€21.50). Expresso costs between 4.50 – 5.50 CHF (€4.80-€5.90) and wine usually around 8.00 CHF (€8.60). Bottled water is expensive in restaurants, often at a similar price to an espresso.

Basel has several craft breweries and while I am not a beer drinker, I did have a “Ueli beer” one of the best known. It was quite hoppy but very nice. I loved the fact it was served in a branded glass also !

Final Thoughts 

While I did enjoy my stay in Basel, this isn’t my favourite Swiss city that I have visited. I did love the fact it was extremely walkable though. I also saw some other small museums that I’d like to visit including one dedicated to Cartoons. The Old Town and the area around the Paper Museum were my favourite areas.

If you do visit, do ask about the Basel card, if you are not given one. You can spend the money you save on Swiss Chocolate or Rose Wine ! I saved 31.60 CHF (€33.90) which paid for a meal.

But the main reason I hope to return to Basel is that I intend to purchase a “Wicklefisch” and float as far as I can along the majestic river Rhine !