Day 2 & 3 of the 75km Liechtenstein Trail.

This is my 2nd post on hiking the 75km Liechtenstein Trail. I started at the Swiss border in the south and finished at the Austrian border in the north. It was a great opportunity to see so much of this very unique country.

Please read the first post before this one. It contains an overview of the process and the details about the first day.

Overview and Day 1 of the 75km Liechtenstein Trail

This post continues my journey covering days two and three. I spent five days on the trail.

Day 2 – Treisenberg to Vaduz, 14km

My Fitbit said I slept for 9 hours and 47 minutes. I did feel refreshed and was delighted, when I walked across the room, that I had no aches and pains. I was extremely hungry and really hoped last night was the only time I’d go to bed hungry.

I brought my linen food bag and reusable water bottle down to the breakfast room. The breakfast buffet was practically identical to the first one. I enjoyed a breakfast of eggs, toast, yogurt and coffee. I told the waitress I was hiking the trail and asked about lunch. She told me to take what I wanted from the breakfast buffet and a bottle of water from the “Honesty Bar”. Lunch on day 2 would be the same as day 1.

While there was lots of literature in the hotel lobby I didn’t see anything identifying the start of the trail. I wondered if I was meant to walk back to where I last saw a sign and find my way from there. However when I checked the app, the starting point was in the town center. I hadn’t been there yet and I was ready to leave at 8.45am. 

It was raining heavily so I wore my waterproof jacket and trousers and had put a cover on my backpack. Stage 2 started at a museum called “Walser” in the town center. I was determined not to replicate yesterday’s mistake and to get to the correct starting point. I was relieved to see the distinctive red and blue “Liechtenstein Weg” sign on a tree across from the museum. (Added arrow so you can see how small the signs are from a distance). The rock below the tree is a boulder which is thought to have been there since the Ice Age.

It continued to rain all morning and I was glad this was the shortest day. After leaving the town I walked along a path through the countryside.

I passed two more milestones including one which was about an area where a community had settled in the 14th Century. Several wooden houses were situated in a beautiful picturesque green field. There wasn’t a sound from that small tent you can see pitched across from the houses.

Just before I reached the trail, a series of amazing wooden statues stood facing the forest. One also stood at the entrance to the trail. The trail then led me into the forest. Again I was glad I had my walking poles as this section proved to be extremely tricky. While it was mainly downhill it was very steep in places. The roots, stones and leaves were very wet so you had to be extremely careful with your footing. I was glad I didn’t meet anyone as the path was narrow in places.

After about 45 minutes I came to a path which was right opposite “The ruins of Schalun Castle” AKA Wildschloss. I had hiked to this spot last year so I estimated I was less than an hour from Vaduz. The rising mist created a beautiful eerie feeling.

The forest here is very dense with trees creating a covering over the pathways. There are lots of signs showing several different trails and their duration. Signs also identify some local birds, which I could hear but not see.

I met several people in this section and soon started to get a glimpse of Vaduz Castle. It’s an impressive building and probably Liechtenstein’s most famous landmark. Last year a section was under construction. I was delighted to see it was finished so I could take an unobstructed photograph. The next stage starts as you pass the castle so I had now completed my 3rd official stage of the 75km trail.

The rain was starting to ease off and the clouds were clearing showcasing a beautiful blue sky. The views of Vaduz are spectacular from the look-out points. While I had seen it before I was delighted to return. I arrived in Vaduz shortly before noon.

The 4th stage includes a walk around Vaduz. Even though I had been here before I planned to do it. But hunger prevailed and I needed a decent meal first. Due to the heavy rain, I hadn’t stopped for a break all morning and I was extremely hungry.

You get a great view of the castle perched above Vaduz from the main street. I went to an Asian restaurant I had visited last year. I made quick work of a delicious red curry with tofu, vegetables and rice. Spicy curry is the ideal meal to warm you up and give you some energy.

I completed the section around Vaduz after eating. This took you along the main street, past the museums, government buildings, churches and over to the soccer stadium. In day 4, this stadium features in an encounter ! You will need to read that post to learn how.

If you are interested in learning about the museums in Vaduz, please read my post from my previous visit.

How to spend 48 hours in Vaduz, in the principality of Liechtenstein 

I could have visited them again free with the Adventure Pass. However, I enjoyed strolling along the street and seeing all the monuments and buildings again.

As I planned to watch a rugby match online, I went to my hotel early. I was staying in the same one I had stayed in last year so I knew where it was. It only took a few minutes to complete the self check-in at “Hotel Vaduzerhof”.  I was disappointed I didn’t see my rucksack anywhere. However it was only 3.00pm. To my delight when I got to my room it was there. While I only had one flight of stairs to climb, I really appreciated this.

Well my favourite team “Leinster” won the match. So after showering and changing I was ready for a short walk and decided to visit the Tourist Office. This was where I was meant to to be getting my certificate. As I had now reinstalled the app twice I wondered how to prove I had completed the trail and didn’t take the bus between hotels !  While I wasn’t due to pass through Vaduz, on the trail again, I planned to come back before I left Liechtenstein.

I had a great chat with a very helpful lady about the trail. She asked to see my passport and went to a computer terminal. She said as I was finishing the trail in Schaanwald she could give me the certificate now. The competitive person in me felt a bit of a fraud and I wondered how many people get it without completing the trail ! But I took it – knowing I would either walk to the end or rip it up.

So “officially” I am the 486th person to complete the trail. When I queried the number she did say not everyone comes and collects the certificate. I also presume some people complete the trail without booking accommodation through the tourist board. 

She gave me some gifts – a branded keyring, a bright pink water bottle and she stamped my passport free of charge. I had purchased the official Liechtenstein passport stamp the year before for 3CHF. I planned to get another one so appreciated getting it free.

As I was finished so early and after the excitement of the rugby match I decided I was going out on the town ! So I made myself presentable and went to the Bistro at the Residence hotel. I didn’t want a heavy meal but wanted food. I throughly enjoyed burrata cheese served in a hot tomato puree and a small fennel and grapefruit salad. The first dish below is a complementary “Amuse Bouche” (cauliflower in a spicy sauce) which was delicious.

I wasn’t to know then that I wouldn’t be having an evening meal for awhile !!!

Despite the rain and the cold, I had a brilliant day. But I was happy to have another early night. I like my sleep.

I had now completed 4 stages and walked 29.3km. 

Triesenberg to Vaduz – 8.5 km, official estimated walking time = 2 hrs and 24 mins

Vaduz – 5.4km, official estimated walking time = 1 hr and 26 mins

Day 3 – Vaduz to Schaan to Planken to Nendeln, 13km

After another great nights sleep I had scrambled eggs and toast again for breakfast. It really wasn’t getting boring and it’s the perfect meal when hiking. Also, they had the traditional Swiss Bircher Muesli (yogurt with soaked granola) which I love. 

Again I told the waitress I was on the trail and she told me to make myself a sandwich. There were some signs saying food is only to be eaten in the dining room. I did hear a gentleman say to his partner that I was stealing food which amused me ! 

The waitress asked me what other food and drinks I needed. She took my water bottle and filled it with chilled sparkling water, gave me a banana and a small plastic container for fruit. I made a cheese sandwich again, put some Bircher Muesli and fruit salad in the container and took a croissant for my morning snack.

I left my rucksack in the designated area and was ready to leave just before 9.00am. I had walked to the starting point, after my meal the night before, so there was no chance of making a mistake today. I enjoyed seeing the castle again from the main street before I left Vaduz.

The first stage took me to the town of Schaan. I walked by the Prince of Liechtenstein Winery, through a residential area and got a different view of Vaduz castle. Thankfully it wasn’t raining. But it was quite cool so I wore a long sleeved top. The wooden houses are really beautiful and all the gardens are well maintained. I was very intrigued by the burnt wooden panels which lots of houses have. It really is aesthetically beautiful. Again I was surprised at how close cows appear to be grazing to houses !

I didn’t expect Schaan to be as large as it is. It’s the largest metropolitan area in Liechtenstein. Schaan has about 6.2k population versus 5.7k in Vaduz, the capital. I arrived in the town center within about 80-90 minutes of leaving my hotel. The walk was quite flat and I loved seeing where people actually live. You don’t often walk through so many residential areas when visiting a country. This trail certainly introduces you to the real Liechtenstein. There was a clean public toilet at one of the government buildings, on the main street in Schaan.

A comfortable bench outside a graveyard, under the tower, seemed the ideal place to stop for a snack. A fresh croissant and an apple went down really well. I watched the residents of Schaan go by for a few minutes – either walking or on bicycles. This wasn’t the first time I spotted how carefully they drive here.

After leaving Schaan, a steep path along a road took me to the St. Elisabeth nunnery. A short flat walk followed and then the trail turned into the woods (with another grotto at the start). For 300 meters I worked off my croissant as it was a steep climb. This was the first day I didn’t use my walking poles as while it was steep it wasn’t difficult. Again I met no-one in the woods, all I could hear were birds chirping away. It was just sheer bliss – my idea of heaven.

I then arrived in Planken. Now this is a picturesque town. The wooden houses are just spectacular. Everything looked really well maintained with green spaces and lovely flowers. The views of the “Three Sisters Mountains” above me and the valley below were really breathtaking. I stopped at a park bench in a residential street and had my lunch. Again the food tasted delicious outdoors and I needed the nourishment. However, after I walked about five minutes further I regretted where I stoped. There were some benches with a panoramic view of the valley and it would have been the ideal place to rest. Image 1 below is where I sat (see arrow), 2 is where I should have sat and 3 what I would have seen !

The remainder of my day was spent walking down a very steep trail until I reached Nendeln, which was to be my pit stop for this day. Again I was in awe at the architecture and the building below is one of my favourites.

I followed the signs and when I got to the main street I spotted my hotel. Hotel Weinstube had sent me a key code previously. As I approached it, I thought everywhere seemed very quite. I entered the key code and the box opened to give me a metal key. 

I let myself into a very traditional wooden reception area. There was no-one around. My rucksack was there so I took it and went up one flight of stairs to my room. The room was a decent size but not as nicely decorated as the previous two. After a quick shower and change of clothes I was ready for food. It was only 3.30pm and I didn’t want to stay in this room all evening. The hotel guide book had lots of information abut their restaurant and wine. But it was closed all day as this was Sunday.  I googled restaurants nearby and everything was identified as closed for the day. It seemed as if I would need to get a bus to Vaduz to find a restaurant. I didn’t want to do that. There was a minibar in the room but apart from an array of beverages it had a box of Pringles and a packet of salted peanuts. However there was no tea or coffee making facilities in the room and I hadn’t seen any downstairs either. 

Even though it was a Sunday I expected to find something open so I set off on a mission. The Spar shop was closed and other hotels had key code entrances. I then spotted a pizza sign so went over to the building. It sold Doner Kebabs and Pizzas and was open. I was surprised as this didn’t appear on my restaurant search. While I didn’t want a large meal like pizza, I thought I’d see what they had. I walked in and it really was one of the most uninviting restaurants I have been to. A very stale smell hit me so I left immediately.

I went back to the hotel convinced they had an “Honesty Bar” somewhere and I had just missed it. But I hadn’t ! I walked all around, opened every door that would open and could find nothing. I wonder if anyone watched the security cameras. I certainly looked suspicious !!

So I ended up having a banana and some snacks I had brought with me from home. I did take a beer from the mini-bar, which cost 4CHF. So I had another very early night and went to bed extremely hungry. I was so glad I had two meals the day before in Vaduz. Tomorrow was Monday so I was convinced this wouldn’t happen to me again ! 

I had now completed another two stages and walked 41.8km. I was more than half way across Liechtenstein. I also didn’t make any mistakes on day 3 – so it was another fantastic day apart from ending with me being hungry !!

Vaduz to Schaan – 4.9 km, official estimated walking time = 1 hr and 18 mins

Schaan to Nendeln – 7.6km, official estimated walking time = 2 hrs and 23 mins

Thank you for reading this. Days 4 and 5 will follow shortly and all comments are appreciated below.