Bratislava, is the capital of Slovakia. It is located right on the South West border. The current population is estimated to be 600k. It is the only National Capital to border two countries i.e. Austria and Hungary. It is situated on the banks of the river Danube and the left bank of the river Morava.
Slovakia, a landlocked country in central Europe, became an independent country in 1992 after the Velvet Revolution. The Velvet Revolution was a series of peaceful demonstrations against Communist rule. It was at the same time as the fall of the Berlin Wall. Czechoslovakia was then divided into 2 countries – The Czech Republic and Slovakia.
The official language is Slovak. English is widely spoken in restaurants and cafes in Bratislava. However, fewer people spoke English at the Museums and Palaces I visited. The local currency is the Euro. Credit cards were accepted in most establishments. I always pay small amounts in local currency, as it is usually preferred, due to high bank processing fees.
Bratislava was previously called Pressburg and you will see references to this name at lots of Museums and Palaces.
I really enjoyed my visit to this smaller and lesser known European Capital City. It was less crowded than others I visited during the Summer. I found hosts and waiting staff extremely welcoming. No one refused me a table as a solo traveller. Sometimes staff chatted to me about travelling alone. However, it always felt as if they were just being curious and never intrusive.
I arrived in Bratislava on a train from Prague. The journey took 4 hours and 9 minutes and a reserved seat cost €119.10. You can get a train to Vienna also, which takes 1 hour and 7 mins.
Bratislava airport is 9km Northeast of the city. Ryanair flies to and from several European cities to Bratislava . Other airlines offer flights to neighbouring countries. Vienna International Airport is 90km away and seems to be used by a lot of travellers visiting Bratislava.
I have travelled extensively on trains in mainland Europe recently and this was by far, the most unpleasant journey. The platform was announced about 10 minutes before the scheduled departure time. The carriages were not in numerical sequencing. My seat was in carriage 372 which was not after 371 but was between 368 and 369. I boarded the train at the wrong carriage as it was due to depart. It was extremely difficult trying to walk through carriages with my small case and backpack. People were packed in the aisles and some were sitting on the floor. Two people were extremely aggressive with me, one refusing to let me pass. At one stage, I thought I would have to stand in a crowded aisle for the 4 hour journey.
After the train departed, I decided to walk to find my seat without my luggage. There was a woman sitting in my seat and she refused to move. When I asked to see her ticket, showing her mine, she ignored me until a man intervened suggesting that she leave. He knew she didn’t have a ticket as he was sitting in my seat and she was in his. She eventually left the carriage and I went to get my luggage. However, you couldn’t leave the seat to use the bathroom and there were no refreshments available on the train. This train was like a train in a 3rd World country. I have travelled on them and never minded, but for this price this train was appalling. I do understand from talking to people that there are better train operators servicing this route.
I arrived in the early afternoon and walked to my hotel which was a 14 minute walk from the station.
Bratislava Card
I purchased the Bratislava card for 3 days, which cost €23.60. This was the cost for the digital card (included a 10% discount) and excluding transport. You can purchase the cards for €2 extra per day to include transport. After walking around for a few hours on the first evening, I knew I would be walking to most places.
Like other cards, you download the card from the app store. You purchased the card on their website and within minutes I received the activation code which you entered in the app. The card is now valid but is activated when you scan it, when entering the first location. Your time available is shown very clearly.
I highly recommend getting a card and the digital one was extremely efficient. I never had any connectivity issues at any stage, when having it validated. You can’t use a screenshot to enter facilities and must have the app active.
I spent 3 days and a few hours in Bratislava and this is what I saw and did :
Bratislava Castle, Free to walk around the grounds and gardens
I walked to the Castle on the first morning. The large rectangular Castle walls overlook the city and you can walk to it through the old town. You walk through lots of small streets, city gates and cross the “Novy Most Bridge” over a busy road. While part of the walk is up-hill, I do recommend walking this route (as opposed to directly from the outskirts of the city). The cobbled streets are just lovely and the view of the Danube and the UFO Tower are fantastic when crossing the bridge. Some of the buildings appeared to be deserted and were very run-down but it felt very safe walking through the streets, as there were locals and tourists walking also.
You can enter the Castle grounds from several gates. The signs at the gates were not always detailed and clear. I thought the sign at the Nicholas Gate was the most helpful.
There are 4 towers on either corner surrounding the Courtyard. The Museum was closed the day I went (a Tuesday). I considered returning on another day but as there were so many museums in the center, that I didn’t go back.
You can easily spend 60-90 minutes walking around the grounds. There are 4 gates (Sigismund, Vienna, Nicholas and Leopold). Each one is very distinctive. The Gardens are well maintained, there are statues and interesting sculptures everywhere and the panoramic views of the city are just breathtaking.
Saint Nicholas Church, Free Admission
This tiny church is quite a gem and is a short walk from the Nicholas Gate. You don’t pay for admission but can give a donation or pay to light a candle. The Church was built in 1661 and consecrated to St. Nicholas the Patron Saint of Sailors. Naming it in his honour surprised me as Slovakia is a landlocked country.
The Church has one nave, several ornate distinctive statutes and a wooded bell tower. The small Church is certainly worth a 10-15 minute visit when you are walking back from the Castle.
St Martin’s Cathedral, Free Admission
This is the most famous of the religious buildings and its distinctive green tower is visible from lots of areas in the city. The nave has 3 aisles divided by rows of columns. The tower stands at 85m high. A gold plated replica of the Crown of St. Stephen is right on the top. Several coronations were held here through its history dating back to the 1500’s. There is a very interesting silver statue of St. Martin on a horse.
The Cathedral was built over a cemetery so it contains catacombs and crypts, containing the remains of lots of figures associated with its history.
The Cathedral is closed to tourists when mass is being said, which I thought was a great idea. I have attended lots of Religious buildings around the World and I hate walking in on a service, regardless of the denomination. I always feel like an intruder.
Primates Palace, Admission was €3.00, included in the Bratislava Card
This Palace is in the Old Town. I received my ticket in the reception area and walked upstairs. Two curators were sitting at a desk and had a box of audio guides. You had to ask for one and there was no additional charge for its use. I highly recommend you get one as the details it explained were really excellent.
Each room contains artwork of local artists and of historical significance. There are 5 large tapestries hanging on the walls. One is estimated to be worth more than the actual Palace itself.
Several historical events occurred in the Hall Of Mirrors, throughout the city’s history. It is still used to host visiting dignitaries and Pope John Paul the 2nd was hosted here when he visited Bratislava in 1995. The Palace used to be the home of the President of Slovakia but this was changed in 1996.
I do recommend visiting this Palace but it did appear a little rundown and in need of some care. The entrance fee is very cheap given the historical significance of the building and the exhibitions.
The Museum of the City History, Admission was €8.00, included in the Bratislava Card
This is in the Old Town, near the Main Square. There wasn’t an audio guide available here and the signage is limited.
The Museum contains a lot of artwork dating back to the 17th Century. They are displayed in very interesting copper frames. It also has a lot of archaeological discoveries and outlines a history of the culture and social structures of Bratislava. I was particularly impressed with the Wooden Structures.
There are some great black and white photographs in the Trades Room showing Pressburg from 1900-1940. Items that caught my eye were a Cash Register dating back to 1898 and a Coffee Bean Container from the 1920’s.
The stained glass windows and ceilings above the courthouse are really interesting. You access this via 26 steps to an area with 2 huge bells, another 20 wooden steps and 20 concrete ones. The windows contain images of the Slovakian Flag, a castle and the city Coat of Arms.
You can easily spend 70-80 minutes walking around this Museum.
Cruise on the Danube, Cost was €20.00, not included in the Bratislava card
I walked down to the city dock early in the morning to see what cruises were available that day. I went to the first office I saw and it seemed as if the staff member was new as he acted surprised when I asked about cruises. He started telling me about walking tours of the city. Eventually a colleague interrupted and gave me some options. A cruise to Devon Castle was leaving within 20 minutes so I asked for a ticket for that. She then told me that it went from a different pier and she would need to call another office to get the location. After her call, she told me it was about a 10 minute walk and she gave me some very complicated directions. Thankfully she told the name of the boat “The Pershov”. I walked very quickly in the direction she identified. After walking for 8 minutes I realised that there were no more boats docked so I walked back. Thankfully I saw the boat, tucked behind a huge cruise ship. It was less than 5 minutes from the booking office and there was a large restaurant on the dockside. The instructions could have been a lot easier to follow ! I arrived just before it departed. The ticket collector wanted to retain my ticket even though it was for my return journey also. We had a little bit of a wresting match with it, before he gave it back to me.
The 12km journey along the Danube took 90 minutes. I really enjoyed it as we saw lots of buildings as we went through the outskirts of the city and we were then in the countryside very quickly.
You could purchase beverages and snacks at a small counter but choice was limited. There was a coffee vending machine on the counter and the quality was very good and cheap (€2.00 for a coffee).
Devon Castle, Admission was €8.00, included in the Bratislava Card
The castle is on the confluence of the Danube and the river Morava. You can also travel by bus. The number 29 leaves from the bus depot under the flyover. The journey takes 30 minutes and goes frequently.
It was about a 10 minute walk from the dock to the Castle. You walk along a small country road, by the Danube and then get to the confluence of the Morava. You start to get a glimpse of the castle as you approach it. It sits 212 km above the riverbed. There are a few cafes, restaurants and stalls in the area beside the entrance.
It rained the whole time I was there which created an interesting atmosphere. The Castle is a series of ruins and some buildings date back to the Middle Ages. It has had numerous owners and occupants. You can visit caves, great viewing platforms and 2 exhibition areas. The exhibition contains artefacts from the 13th – 20th Century.
It was raining heavily when I walked back to the boat and a queue was forming. However, even though people had small children, they didn’t start boarding until 5 minutes before we left. The return journey took 30 minutes as the boat went a lot faster back to the dock.
I highly recommend a visit to the castle either by boat or bus. It was lovely to see some of the Slovakian countryside. I really enjoyed the cruise and while a few boats going to Vienna passed us, it is a quiet and unspoilt stretch of the Danube.
Viticulture Museum, Admission was €6.00, included in the Bratislava Card
This Museum is also in the Historical town center. You collect a ticket from the Town hall. The exhibitions are in 2 rooms. Signs in English and Slovak explain the history of winemaking in Slovakia.
Glass cabinets contain lots of items – from tools used in the vineyards, to glasses and bottles used to store and serve wine. Slovakia has 6 winemaking areas, mainly in the South. It’s rare to see Slovakian wine as it is mainly retained for the domestic market.
“Tokaj” wine is unique to an area of Slovakia and the neighbouring Hungary. Just like Champagne, only wine made in this area, can be labelled “Tokaj”. It is considered a luxury wine as is not readily available.
You can also visit the wine tasting area which is accessible opposite the reception desk. Tasting sessions must be reserved and I reserved one for the following afternoon (see below). There is a sign offering a tasting of 72 wines in a 100 minutes and I didn’t elect to do that. I think that sounds horrendous !
UFO Tower, Admission was €9.50, €2.00 discount with the Bratislava Card
I love seeing a Panoramic view of a City, so I go to every Tower and high-rise building. The UFO Tower is one of the most distinctive structures in the city. It is shaped like a flying saucer. A queue had formed 15 minutes before it opened at 10.00am. Once they opened, people were admitted quickly. They were asking every person their Nationality and it was listed on the ticket. You go to the top in a very small fast lift. There was no attendant in the lift and on both occasions when I entered and was standing near the back, no-one made any effort to press the button to start the lift, which quite amused me !
The panoramic view from the top is amazing. The viewing area is quite large and there is no railing so you can take photos easily (see people learning over in the photo below). There is some signage on the wall detailing all the famous Towers in the World. The UFO tower is 95 meters high and it straddles the overpass. I spent about 20 minutes at the viewing area and there was a constant stream of people coming and going.
Afterwards, I went to the restaurant, which is downstairs from the viewing area. The view from here is excellent also and the small number of tables are strategically placed around the rim. Lunch and dinner are served here. Beverages were just available when I visited and I had a lovely cup of fresh Ginger and Mint tea (cost was €5.50) . People were getting coffee, teas and cocktails and the service was great.
I highly recommend a visit to the UFO Tower and do make time for a drink at the cafe.
Mirabach Palace, Admission was €6 included in the Bratislava Card
This Palace is in the Historical center of the town. The 2 story building has been very well preserved and is named after its former owner.
Room after room contains artwork, sculptures and religious memorabilia dating back to the 16th Century. Two rooms had floor to ceiling paintings all hung side by side, in wooden panels. There must have been over 100 in each room. There were great signs, in English and Slovak at each doorway, explaining the exhibitions in the room.
The floorboards creak a lot when you are walking around creating an interesting atmosphere. There were only 2 other tourists when I visited and the curators appeared to follow us around.
One room is used as a Concert Hall and has really interesting charcoal drawings and scenes from Bratislava over the years. The Upstairs area had the history of Pressburg (former name of the city). Each room was very cleverly themed (1) Castle (2) Danube (3) Roads (4) Churches and Cathedrals.
You can easily spend 60-70 minutes walking around this very interesting Palace. If you only want to visit one museum or palace, this is the one I suggest you go to.
Franciscan Church of the Annunciation, Admission was free to main church, €1.00 to enter the small Museum and to climb the tower
This Church is in the Historic Center of the town. It was built in the 13th Century and is the oldest church in Bratislava. The external facade is quite plain and in need of some repair.
The Pieta altar, the pulpit and the Loretta church are all worth seeing. However, the 2 main highlights in my opinion, are the tower and the exhibition area at the side.
There were some beautiful vestments on show in the exhibition hall. I thought the colours were unusual and the style different to others I have seen. The green one in particular seemed quite austere but very beautiful. A white one on display was worn by Pope Francis when celebrating mass during a Papal visit. Despite signs everywhere saying “Do not touch” in multiple languages, I was surprised to see how many people touched them.
You can enter the main church and the first exhibition area free of charge and the cost to the tower and the 2nd exhibition is €1. Do not climb this tower if you can’t bend down easily and if you suffer from even a little bit of claustrophobia.
However, if you are able to climb it, it’s worth it. There are 6 steps followed by 76 and the steps are narrow and steep. The bell is extremely impressive and worth the climb to see it.
However, while the view of the city is great, there is wire mesh on the windows so it is difficult to take decent photos. You can also enter a 2nd exhibition area showcasing a lot of interesting religious artefacts.
I enjoyed my visit to this church and I do recommend you allow 30-60 mins to walk around it.
Wine Tasting, €49.00, €4.50 discount given with the Bratislava Card
As mentioned above you can select from lots of different tasting options. I selected the 6 wine option as the Sommelier, Peter, told me it was for Wine lovers and he would pour very unique wines.
I was seated in a small room and I was the only person at the tasting. This didn’t feel awkward at all, as Peter was the perfect host. He is extremely knowledgable and passionate about Slovakian Wines. He poured the following for me:
- Sparkling White “Matysak”. This was very dry and a little tart. It is very different to Prosecco or any of the sparkling wines I have tasted. This retails at approximately €22.00 per bottle
- White “Ludvik”. This has a lot of flavours, with a spicy aftertaste. It warms the back of your throat which is strange for a white wine. It retails at approximately €44 per bottle.
- White “Palugya”. This has won lots of awards within Slovakia and abroad and it was obvious why. This is really lovely with a light spicy taste. Bottles of this are reported to have been served on the Titanic and some have been reported as still intact in the wreckage. It retails at approximately €14.00 which was a surprise as I preferred it to the Ludwik.
- Pinot Noir “Angel Wine”, like most Pinots this is a light red. This wasn’t my favourite and retails at approximately €27.00 per bottle.
- Red “Nichta” This had a fabulous dark red colour. It’s made from a combination of grapes and called “Alibernet”, which I had not heard of before. This was my favourite wine that I tased and it retails at approximately €13.00 per bottle.
- Tokaj, I was really looking forward to tasting this local speciality and it didn’t disappoint. As explained above, this unique wine is only produced in a small area of Slovakia and the neighbouring Hungary. Just like Champagne, only wine made in this area, can be labled “Tokaj”. It is considered a luxury wine as is not readily available. The brown grapes are aged for 4.5 years and are kept in open barrels. It actually had quite a chocolate, buttery taste. I don’t think this is a wine you would drink regularly but would have a glass on a special occasion. Each vintage is given a number between 1- 6 to denote the quality and the one I had was labelled a 4 from 2003. It is bottled in a .375l bottle. It retails for €21.00 per bottle. I bought 2 bottles and carried them back in my rucksack. I intend to keep them for special occasions so family and friends visiting me in the near future – let’s discuss !!!
If you enjoy tasting and learning about wines, do make time for a tasting. I really hope Peter is the Sommelier pouring when you do. He allocates 2 hours for this tasting for groups. I was there for about 90 minutes as was alone. Peter is the perfect Sommelier to pour for you and educate you. A detailed map of the wine regions and some great books were in the room which he leveraged also.
This was one of the most enjoyable wine tastings I have ever been at and I will go again, when I next visit Bratislava.
Food and Drink
There are lots of cafes, bars and restaurants throughout the Historic district and in the squares. I found everywhere to be extremely welcoming. I was always seated, even when they were busy. Hosts and waiting staff spoke English. Food and beverages are quite a lot cheaper than larger European cities and I found the choice and quality to be of a high standard.
As well as lots of traditional Slovakian restaurants, there were several Italian and Indian restaurants. I also saw at least 2 Vegan restaurants but I didn’t eat in either.
I had breakfast each morning at “Enjoy Bistro” just down from the distinctive Michaels Gate. This was a 10 minute walk from my hotel and very close to the Historic Center. I had the Croissant breakfast which consisted of a nice fresh croisaant, a glass of juice (choice of Apple, Orange and Grapefruit) and a coffee of your choice. This cost €6.90. While it has seating outside, I liked starting my morning inside as the interior was quiet and tranquil.
I had lunch and dinner at “Papillion”, just off the Main Square. The all female staff here are very welcoming. I had the veggie curry on both occasions. It was very fresh and cost €9.90. This restaurant has a great menu with choices to suit all dietary requirements.
I had lunch on my first day in the secluded courtyard of Gatto Matto. They started serving lunch just after 11.30am and it was extremely busy by 12.15pm. While I had a pasta dish similar to Ravioli, it was different to what I eat in Italy. It was very fresh and light with a creamy cheese and light pesto sauce. It cost €9.50.
I had lunch on my last day in a Slovakian restaurant just down a side street, called “Koliba Kamzik”. The outside area was full and the waiter brought me inside. It was empty initially but it filled up really quickly.
They have a large menu including some set menus suitable for groups of 4 or 6. Several tables were getting these. I had the Traditional Slovakian Potato Gnocchi served with wild garlic, dried tomatoes, radishes, cheese and sunflower seeds. It cost €13.80. It was delicious but the portion size was too large for lunch.
There was a lovely atmosphere in this restaurant with its brightly decorated red and white interior. I think it would be a great restaurant to go to in the evening with a group of friends.
Final Thoughts !
Bratislava was my favourite city to visit in my Trifecta (Vienna, Prague and Bratislava). While I went to a lot of places, I had a list of others I wanted to visit including the Transportation Museum, the Clock Museum and I want to do the Tour of the Communism Sights. I would also like to attend the Opera as it was closed during the month of August.
The city has trams and bus routes everywhere and has one decker tourist “hop on hop off buses”. However, it’s a very walkable city as most things are in close proximity to either the Castle or the Main Square. When you walk around you do see lots of very unique statues on the corners, by seats and often just on the street.
Bratislava wasn’t as packed as some cities are during the Summer and everyone I encountered were friendly. It is also cheap by European standards and I felt very safe walking around solo. Make sure you look down as well as up, so as not to miss some very unique statutes !
This city is now on my list of favourite European Cities to visit and I will be back !