A 2-3 day trip to Vik, Iceland 

Vik (Vik i Myrdal) is the southernmost village of Iceland. It is 188 km (117 miles) southeast of Reykjavik and is accessible via the main ring road. The ring road circles the entire island of Iceland. Vik has approximately 750 full-time residents and is the largest inhabited area in that part of Iceland. 

While my preferred mode of transport when traveling is the train, I knew this wasn’t an option in Iceland. I was planning on taking a bus to Vik. However, after talking to the concierge at my hotel I decided to hire a car and have a real solo road trip !

It didn’t take long to reach the countryside after leaving Reykjavik. Please read my post “The Road to Vik” to see how my journey to and from Vik went. This post is all about the time I spent in Vik.

Hotel

There are several places to stay in Vik. I stayed at the Hotel Vik I Myrdal, which was very easy to find. It is nestled right under the rock face. It had a large car park and was right in the center of the town.

A decent sized room cost €193 ($210) per night. This included the breakfast buffet and there was no additional charge to park. I really enjoyed my stay at the hotel. The room was really comfortable and was very quiet. The breakfast buffet was excellent with a wide array of hot and cold selections. The coffee was good quality and there was lots of fruit, yogurt (including Icelandic Skry) and pastries. 

My only concern was that when I was checking in, I was asked to provide some details (car registration, room number and mobile phone number). I never have an issue giving my car registration number at hotels as it’s usually a standard practice. However, this was documented on a sheet of paper, which was sitting on the reception desk for everyone to see. I asked if it was always visible and I was told it was. There were several other peoples details already listed. While I know that Iceland is a very safe country, as I was traveling alone, I didn’t want my details visible. I told the receptionist I was happy to provide my car details for her to document it on-line (I presumed they had my mobile number from the booking website), but I didn’t want it visible to everyone. She didn’t understand my concern and got a little irritated with me. So unfortunately my initial introduction to Vik, was a little uncomfortable. 

Reynisfjara – The Black Sand Beach 

While I had read all about the Black Sand Beach and had seen pictures of it, I still wasn’t prepared for how black it actually is. It is jet black and is extremely beautiful. The day I arrived it was cold and windy. The dusk was starting to settle when I walked down to the beach for the first time. The cold air and dark sky certainly added to the atmosphere and I did have to stand back in awe and take it all in.

The black sand has been formed due to boiling hot lava, from a nearby dormant volcano. It flowed down to the beach, cooled and solidified when hitting the cold water. This is another great example of the impact of Icelands volcanoes. 

I did go down to the beach on 3 other occasions to see it in a different light. The beaches I am familiar with in Ireland have either extremely soft and somewhat silky beige sand or a mixture of sand and pebbles. The black sand in Vik has a very small pebble-like consistency and when you look at it closely, it has specks of red and yellow throughout it. Please note that the 3rd image below is actually in colour !!!

To the right of the rocks there are a series of sea stacks and basalt columns. The waves were rough each time I was there, creating an amazing atmosphere as they thrashed against the large rock formations. 

In 1991 the US magazine “Island” said that this beach is one of ten most beautiful in the World. While I haven’t seen all the other nine, I have to say this one is very special. 

Hiking 

Reynisfjall is a mountain to the right of the town. You walk through a residential street and then turn onto a gravel road, to start your assent. While it was cold when I set off, early on the first morning, the day felt calm. 

The gradient started getting steep fairly quickly but the surface was great for walking on. After walking for about 20 minutes the wind started and I was surprised that it was so strong it was actually moving me at times. I was the only person walking that morning but a workman in a small vehicle passed me a few times, so I felt I wasn’t alone. 

I stopped regularly to enjoy the view of Vik and the surrounding landscape. While I had thought that the black sand beach looked impressive up close, it looks quite menacing from afar. It took me about 45 minutes to walk to the top.

It was quite tiring due to the gradient and the strength of the wind. At one stage hailstones started and they felt as if they were cutting my face. Once I got to the top, I continued to walk around to the right. The view at that side was breathtaking also. There was a smaller black sand beach and more rock formations in the sea. A small red roofed church surrounded by a graveyard was one of two buildings. This church which is called Reyniskirkja, looked really peaceful. 

I walked around for a while taking in the fresh air, enjoying the solitude and the unique landscape.

Unfortunately the wind wasn’t quite at my back going down but it was still a wonderful walk. While I was only walking for about 90 minutes, it felt like a good workout. Apart from the gradient, I did feel I had weathered the elements well. This wasn’t the first occasion that the weather had changed very quickly, while I was in Iceland, so you do need to be prepared for that. 

Lava Show

This is advertised as one of only two live lava shows in Iceland. The other is in Rejykavik. It is held in a small theatre in the street to the right of the town. There are 3 performances per day (1pm, 3pm and 5pm). You can purchase a ticket on-line or at the theatre. The price is the same either way and it cost 5,900 ISK (€39.60 or $43).

The show is held in a 50 seater theatre. The seats are all positioned around the display area. One individual manages the show and the gentleman who was in charge the day I went was excellent. After a quick introduction on the agenda and the history of the theatre, we were shown a video. This animation video tells you all about the last time the nearby Katla volcano erupted in 1910. The video is great and is suitable for all ages. Then the live show begins. We were given special glasses to protect our eyes. We were then treated to an actual display of how lava is created, the impact of when water is poured over it and how it cools. The heat off it was extremely hot. The colours were just beautiful from the red and orange to the dark black. We then had a great Q&A session which was very interesting as people asked some great questions. The manager was extremely knowledgeable and his enthusiasm was infectious. We were allowed to take photos before we left.

I thoroughly enjoyed this and the same company manages the theatre in Reykjavik. While some other shows are available in Iceland, they just use videos. I highly recommend adding a live show to any visit to this area. 

Ice Cave Tour

Apart from the black sand beach, the other reason I wanted to visit Vik, was to go on a tour of an ice cave. I decided to wait and book one when I was in Vik and see what some of the local companies offered. After walking around the first day and reading some literature at the various offices, I decided to book with Katlatrack. All these tours are expensive and this cost 38,700 ISK (€260 or $282). 

The tour I had selected started at 11.00am for three hours. There were eleven other people on the tour. Our Polish guide showed us to a large 4 wheel drive vehicle. He asked me to sit in the front as I was on my own. This was the first time a guide had acknowledged I was traveling alone and made an effort to be friendly. I enjoyed sitting at the front as I got to see great views at all times. 

Our guide told us all about the history of Vik and the Katla volcano. Some of what he told us was the same as in the video I had seen at the Lava Show. We drove for about 30 minutes along a dirt road to the North East of Vik. It was very cloudy. We stopped to take photos and to enjoy the landscape but while visibility was poor, the colours were spectacular. I am sure it is even more amazing on a clear day. 

When we arrived at the parking area near the cave, we were all given crampons and hard hats. The guide gave us a few safety tips, to walk in designated areas, watch where we walked and to stick together. I really was not prepared for the amazing site of the caves. Once you got to the entrance and looked to the right, there was a huge hole in the ice formation. It really looked manmade but it isn’t. It’s absolutely spectacular and frames a view across the landscape. I am not sure my photograph does it justice.

The ice was slippier in places and this is not a tour for anyone who hasn’t good balance and can walk up and down large steps. Several of the steps were challenging for me as I am short, but I was able to get myself up and down them. Again the guide was the perfect Gentleman and several times walked with me. 

The ice was melting very slowly in the inner cave. The colours of white, grey, black and blue really surprised me. It was freezing cold but everyone stopped to take lots of photos. We walked inside and outside the cave for about an hour and this really was the highlight of my trip to Iceland.

When we got back to the car, everyone was quite excited and chatting in an animated manner. The guide poured us all a shot of Brennivin, the Icelandic spirit. It tastes a little like liquorice and it certainly warms you up ! It was a perfect ending to our chilly adventure.

Our tour also included a stop at a secluded place at the Black Sand Beach, only accessible in a 4 wheel drive car. 

I can’t recommend doing this tour enough but do shop around and only go with a reputable company. It is a little dangerous so you need the crampons and it was reassuring to have the hard hats. Our guide seemed to know every inch of the cave as he regularly shouted instructions. You can book a shorter tour which doesn’t go to the Black Sand Beach so you should also consider this. 

Vik i Myrdal Lutheran Church

This small but distinctive white, red roofed church appears to look straight over the town. It is visible as soon as you enter the town. I walked up to see it but unfortunately it was closed. However, it was worth going to see the view of Vik, the beach and surrounding areas from another high place. 

Beer at local brewery Smidjan Brugghus 

The guide on the Ice Cave tour had told us that there was a local brewery in Vik. I decided to visit on my last evening. It is situated to the right of Vik, near the residential area.

It was quiet when I arrived. They had a long list of beers on tap and several sold by the bottle. I asked the waitress for a recommendation, telling her I wanted to have a local beer. She recommended the Christmas beer. It was cloudy and quite spicy and I really enjoyed it. 

A tour group and a few couples arrived when I was there and the bar really had a lovely atmosphere. Apparently the Espresso Martini is a local speciality as I heard a couple ordering it. They said it had been recommended by tourists they had met previously. The menu had a large selection of Icelandic fish and meat delicacies, salads and deserts. I paid 2,380 ISK (€15.94 or $17.30) for the beer and a side order of french fries.

I really enjoyed the beer and atmosphere and highly recommend you visit it. If you are not a beer drinker, ask for the current cocktail ! 

Restaurants, Cafes and Bars

As well as the brewery, there are lots of restaurants and cafes to choose from in Vik. 

I had a pasta dish and a glass of wine in the Strondin Pub on my first night. The bar has a large square room with lots of tables, well spaced out. You get served at the table and the staff were all very welcoming. It was extremely busy but they sat me at a table immediately and didn’t ask if I wanted the bill until I finished my wine. I paid 8,040 ISK (€53.85 or $58.43) for my food, two glasses of wine and a coffee. Wine is expensive in Iceland ! 

I had lunch in “Wok-On” near the beach, after my morning hike. I had the Mega Vegan Stir fry and it was delicious. Everything is cooked to order. While it took awhile, it was well worth the wait. The portion size was generous also. It cost 3,340 ISK (€22.37 or $24.27) for the food and a bottle of beer.

I had lunch at the Black Crust Pizzeria after the Ice Cave with two ladies I met on the tour. The black crust pizza, it’s named after, was only available with meat toppings. I had the normal crust, a very large pizza with lots of vegetables and mozzarella cheese. You got a discount if you told them you had been on the Katla Ice Cave tour. I forgot to mention it before I ordered and they had finished the transaction. However, when I asked about it, I was told to take a soft drink of my choice from the fridge. 

The pizza was delicious, you ordered at the counter, paid and your food was brought to the table. While it was very busy, the service was very fast. My lunch cost 4,280 ISK (€28.67 or $31.11) for the pizza, a beer and a coffee.

I had dinner on my second night at my hotel. The dining room looked very different to where I had breakfast. The buffet area was nicely decorated, the tables had tablecloths and good quality cutlery and the lighting was quite dim. The menu had a good selection including meat, fish and vegetarian options. I had a quinoa salad and a portion of french fries. While the fries were delicious, the portion size was too large for one person. The salad was lovely, with very fresh ingredients and a light citrus dressing. The portion size was suitable for a main meal. Price wise it was inline with a more high end restaurant. As well as the food, I had two glasses of wine and a coffee. It cost 8,010 ISK (€53.60 or $58).

As I have documented previously, you don’t need to purchase water in Iceland in cafe and restaurants. It’s always provided (always still and sometimes sparkling) at no additional change.

Final Thoughts

I thoroughly enjoyed my trip to Vik. The drive from Reykjavik was fantastic. It was lovely to visit a small town and see the different scenery. But it was the unique landscape that made me fall in love with this town. The Ice Cave is one of the most spectacular things I have seen. I really loved the Black Sand Beach and I was delighted to have a short hike in such amazing surroundings.

I highly recommend you add this to your itinerary when visiting Iceland. You will enjoy the scenery, hospitality and atmosphere in this unique place and of course the photo opportunities !