Japan, situated in the northwest Pacific Ocean is one of the most densely populated countries in the World. While it has over 14,000 islands, the majority of the population lives on the 5 largest ones. It is divided into 8 regions and 47 administrative prefectures.
I visited Japan in 2019 to support Ireland in the Rugby World Cup. Going to Japan for the tournament was a great way to visit a lot of places, as several of Irelands matches were in different cities. I stayed in Tokyo, Shizuoka, Kobe and Fukuoka. While I travelled alone, I did know some other fans and went on site seeing trips with Mary, Aoife and Jennifer on occasions.
I really didn’t have Japan on my list of countries to travel to, but it was a country I learnt a little about at a young age. Arklow Pottery, one of the main industries in the town I grew up in, was taken over by the Japanese company (Noritake) in the eighties. Several of my aunts and uncles worked their and they would regale us with stories about working with the new management. While it was difficult for them, it was clear they felt the new management were efficient and respectful. Young girls used to come to our school for a short period of time. They would arrive with limited English but would leave fluent and it seemed as if everyone of them was a musical prodigy. Therefore I visited Japan with some preconceived ideas and I can assure you I was far from disappointed. My only regret is I didn’t get to hike Mount Fuji, as it was closed for the season, but I hope to return some day to do that.
Please take a moment to read my travel tips also as this is a very unique country. I was in Japan for 6 weeks and travelled extensively. I am sharing with you, my favourites places and the reasons why !
- Tokyo
The capital city of Japan on the east coast of Honshu Island, has a population of close to 10m people. It has two main airports and I landed at Narita. Armed with my JR pass (see travel tips), it was very easy to get a train and navigate my way to my hotel. I stayed in Tokyo twice, first in Yotsuya and then in Shinjuku. I preferred Shinjuku as it was very central, with lots of places to go to and was serviced by one of the largest train stations in Tokyo.
There is a lot to see in Tokyo, so certainly give yourself a few days to explore the city. It is also a great place to base yourself. On my 2nd trip to Tokyo I was there for 2 weeks and travelled to a lot of other places from the city. The subway system has several lines but while it may look daunting initially, it is very well signposted and easy to find your way around. It is extremely crowded during rush hour and it is an experience to see how organised the Japanese are, how they queue patiently but then push their way onto the train.
I highly recommend seeing the following in Tokyo.
Sensoiji Shrine, this is the oldest temple in the city and was a great introduction to a Japanese Buddhist temple.
There are several rituals that people can follow at the Buddhist Temples, from a water ceremony (watch the locals), leaving prayer cards or symbols, burning incense sticks to lightening candles with written messages.
Tokyo Tower, this distinctive red and white tower was inspired by the Eiffel tower. It’s really worth a visit and the panoramic views from the main deck are amazing
The Imperial Palace, the home of the Japanese Royal family is surrounded by walls and a moat. The gardens are beautiful also.
Shibuya crossing, this is one of the busiest street crossings in the World and featured in numerous films and publications. It is estimated that approximately 2,000 people cross every 2 minutes during the busy periods. It’s a great place to people watch and see how orderly the Japanese are, even when in a hurry.
- Shizuoka
As Ireland played at Shizuoka stadium, I stayed here for several days. My hotel was right across from the main train station. Shizuoka is on the South East Coast, I travelled from Tokyo and the 181km journey took an hour on the Bullet train.
Shizuoka felt quite small after my few days in Tokyo and I really enjoyed walking around it. I loved visiting the Sunup castle, the Kinomiya Shrine and waking around the city streets and parks. Shizuoka is known as the holy land for green tea and I had my first tea ceremony in a tea house. I also sampled the Shizuoka Chagori in a park, which was delicious. It’s a tea flavoured frozen desert and I had a matcha tea shaved one.
- Nagoya
Nagoya is the 4th largest city in Japan and I travelled from Shizuoka by train which took an hour. It is one of Japans must important ports and is the headquarters of several global brands, including Toyota, Brother and Lexus. While there are lots of museums to visit, my friends and I spent most of our time at the Nagoya Castle.
Nagoya Castle was completed in 1615 by the Shogun Tokugawa Leyasu and was the first castle in Japan to be designated a National Treasure. You can spent hours touring it and walking around the beautiful grounds. The Hommaru Palace, which is on the same grounds, has a wonderful display of Japanese art and the interior has been beautifully restored.
If you are interested in Japanese history, a trip here is essential as it really is one of the best examples of Japanese culture I visited.
- Osaka
I travelled to Osaka from Shizuoka, the 315km journey took 1 hour and 50 mins. As soon as I left the train station, this city felt different. It probably is the most Westernised city I visited, in my opinion. While you could see historic buildings scattered around, it also has lots of global designer shops and high-rises. I enjoyed visiting the Osaka Tower and recommend you climb to the top to see the panoramic view of the city. I also visited the Osaka Castle and the Sumiyoshi, one of the oldest Shinto shrines.
Osaka is known for it’s street food and nightlife. There were lots of bars and restaurants along the banks of the Yodo river with very distinctive signs and windows. Everywhere was busy and I would love to go back and see the sites at nighttime.
One of the main reasons I wanted to go to Osaka is that 40-45 minutes into your train journey you get the most amazing view of Mount Fuji. Even though I kept checking my watch, the Japanese lady sitting beside me elbowed me just before it came into sight. While the train is travelling at a very quick speed, you seem to see it for several minutes. I absolutely love Mountains and seeing it was one of the highlights of my trip. I just need to get closer to it or potentially climb it on a future trip.
- Fukuoka
I stayed in Fukuoka for several days and my hotel was right by train station. Fukuoka is on the Northern shore of Kyushu Island. It is the 2nd largest port city in Japan and was another great city to walk around. The Nagagawa river divides the city and everything west of the river is known as Fukuoka and east is known as Hakata, including the train station. This confused me initially, as my train ticket was issued as travelling to Hakata and I wanted to travel to Fukuoka.
If you are a shopper, you will love the Canal Street Shopping area which has a lots of shops and cafes.
Ohori Park has an impressive moat surrounding Fukuoka Castle and I understand has one of the best displays of cherry blossoms in Japan. The Fukuoka City Art Museum is in the park and it has a great display of global art work by Dali, Warhol and Chagall amongst others.
The Shofuku Temple, is known as Japans first Zen Temple and has an amazing bronze bell in the belfry and unique inscriptions on the main gate.
Fukuoka also has a large international airport. There was a typhoon warning when I was there and lots of flights were cancelled which impacted several of my friends returning to Ireland. My flight, to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia, wasn’t impacted and I left Japan for a week to visit a friend. My trip to Malaysia will be the subject in another blog !
- Hiroshima
I wanted to visit either Hiroshama or Nagasaki due to the obvious historical significance. I travelled from Fukuoka and the 282km journey on the bullet train took 62 minutes. Just outside the train station, a local sightseeing tour bus left frequently, stopping at all the sites. This was free with the JR Pass (see travel tips), which I have recommended previously. I was able to see everything I wanted to and found the bus service really efficient. The stops were well marked and the buses came and left on time.
It was really the ideal way to see the city in one day. I visited the following
- Hiroshima Castle
- The Peace Memorial Park
- The Atomic Bomb Dome
- Downtown Hiroshima
There is certainly a feeling in Hiroshima and I think they have done a wonderful job of acknowledging and memorialising the past in an extremely respectful way. There were several groups of Japanese school children when I was there and I understand from talking to locals that Japanese people visit regularly. This really was a very poignant trip for me and one I highly recommend you take, if the opportunity arises.
- Kagoshima
Kagoshima is 289km south of Fukuoka and it took 1 hour and 35 mins on the bullet train. I travelled here as it is known for Satsumas and is home to the Sakurajima volcano. The volcano is an active volcano and you can see the smoke coming from it. It last erupted in 1955 and it’s situated on Sakura Island which is accessible via a 15 minute ferry ride. I spent so much time in cities and seeing urban Japan, so it was great to see one of the it’s natural phenomenons.
- Hakone
I visited Hakone twice as I really enjoyed it the first time. Hakone is 88km from Tokyo and I travelled for 90mins on a bullet train to Odwara and then transferred to a local train. Hakone overlooks Lake Ashinoko, which has a beautiful shinto shrine a “Torri” by the lake. The lake is surrounded by beautiful countryside and the autumnal colours were fabulous.
I took a tour on the lake, which I really enjoyed. The boat was beautiful and you could get on and off at designated stops. I stoped at the ropeway entrance and took the gondola trip to the top. I had the gondola to myself but it was very cloudy at the top so I couldn’t see Mount Fuji. Even though I was disappointed not to see it, I really enjoyed the journey and recommend it.
You can walk for miles around the lake. Even though it was out of season, there were a lot of people queuing to take a photo at the iconic Torri by the lake. I also walked to the Hakone shrine which is by the lakeside. The entrance is beautiful and contained one of the most striking Torri’s I saw during my time in Japan.
I visited the Odwara museum, the botanical gardens and the Hakone Art Museum, all of which I highly recommend. I also enjoyed this blue beer, called Mount Fuji, in a lovely cafe overlooking the lake.
I retuned to Hakone a few days after my first visit and stayed overnight in a local hotel. I really wanted to enjoy the countryside and fresh air, after spending so much time in Japanese cities. Two of my friends were there at the same time and we had a lovely evening meal in a local restaurant, which had no other tourists. You sat on the floor and we were treated like royalty as we sampled local delicacies, sake and tea. It really was one of the most authentic evenings I had during my time in Japan.
- Kyoto
Kyoto was once the capital of Japan and is situated 370km west of Tokyo and took 2 hours 40 mins on the bullet train. Kyoto is full of Buddhist Temples, Shinto Shrines, Imperial Palaces and traditional wooden houses. I enjoyed visiting the Nishiki Market and the Kyoto Railway museum. I understand if you want to attend a formal Kaiseki dining or see some Geisha entertainers, Kyoto is the place to go for that.
While I enjoyed my day trip to Kyoto, when I think back on my trip to Japan, it isn’t one of the cities that I remember the most.
- Kamakura
Kamakura is the perfect day trip from Tokyo and while it is only 40km away it took about an hour on a local train. It is a resort town and was considered the political centre of medieval Japan. It has Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines everywhere but the landmark which I remember most is the 13m high Bronze Buddha. It really is a sight to see and is one of images I remember the most when I think of my time in Japan. It has weathered well over the years and you can walk around it and take photographs from every angle.
I also visited Sendai, Kobe, Enoshima and Niigata during my time in Japan.
I hope you enjoyed reading about my experiences and please do take a moment to read my Travel Tips for Japan. While I saw a lot during my first trip, there are lots of places I still have to see and ones I want to return to again.
